×Kitsune udon

Why you must eat itStock drawn from kombu, bonito, round herring and soda-bonito — clear, faintly sweet, loosening you as you sip. Kitsune udon is that broth with a single sheet of sweet fried tofu that has drunk it in, clean and unadorned. The noodles are soft, eaten for the slip down the throat in the Kansai way. Step in from the Dotonbori clamour and a quiet room with a garden opens up. Sip the broth first, then break the tofu and pull the noodles up with the chopped scallion.