MACAU · TAIPA ROUTE
Taipa / Rua do Cunha Route
A route through small eats along Rua do Cunha in old Taipa. Congee dissolved with crab, wonton noodles beaten with a bamboo pole, agar cool-sweets, soy tofu pudding, steamed milk custard, durian ice. Over a hundred-odd metres of narrow street, sweet and warm crowd close together.
Rua do Cunha, a narrow street of food
The route's axis is Rua do Cunha, cutting through old Taipa. Only a hundred-odd metres of narrow street, yet sweet shops, noodle houses, congee stalls and souvenirs line both sides without a gap. Unlike the grand streets of the peninsula, two-storey old shops crowd shoulder to shoulder, signs and steam spilling into the lane. This is a place for small eats carried in the hand, not sit-down plates. Better to taste a mouthful at many shops than to finish one dish. The crowd swells from noon to evening, packing the narrow street shoulder to shoulder. Early, or once the sun leans low, is calmer to wander.
From crab congee to milk sweets
The street's food alternates the warm with cold sweets. First the crab congee — rice dissolved with the liquid of thin-fleshed water crabs, brought in the pot, sipped as you crack the legs. Bamboo-pressed noodles, beaten by a worker astride a pole, float fine in clear broth with wontons wrapping a whole shrimp. The sweets are varied too: agar-set dai choi gou, loosely set soy tofu pudding, steamed buffalo-milk custard and double-skin milk, each from its own shop. Close with a durian ice from a stall, a Southeast Asian fruit taken in. Weave salt and sweet, hot and cold, and two passes of the narrow street will not tire you.
How to walk this route
Come into old Taipa by bus or taxi from the peninsula or Cotai and stand at the mouth of Rua do Cunha from Rua de Fernão Mendes Pinto. To settle the stomach, start with crab congee, but share it — the portion is large. Then a bowl of wonton noodles at a bamboo-noodle shop, slurped before it softens. From here work the street back and forth between sweets. Tofu pudding and steamed milk come warm or cold, so take cold if it is hot. Agar jelly can be eaten on a pick while walking. Close with a durian ice from a stall. With energy to spare, pass through to the Taipa Houses or Pak Tai Temple for the old face of the island. The street is narrow and crowded, so avoid large bags and keep both hands free. Skip the after-noon peak and walk in the evening light — it is the most pleasant.
Route map
Old Taipa → Rua do Cunha → Taipa Houses · numbers match the dishes below
The dishes on this route (6)
Tap through to each shop and dish