Katsuura Morning Market Route

What Katsuura Morning Market is

Katsuura Morning Market, counted with Wajima in Ishikawa and Takayama in Gifu as one of Japan's three great morning markets, has over four hundred years of history. In the fishing town of Katsuura, on the Pacific at the southern tip of the Boso Peninsula, stalls line the market street from around 6 a.m. to about 11 a.m. It opens only on mornings other than Wednesday. The sellers are largely fishermen and farming grandmothers, and the morning's catch, dried fish and vegetables are spread plainly on the ground or on tables. At the end of the street is Tomisaki Shrine, whose stone steps are famous from its doll festival. Here, not fully turned into a sightseeing spot, the seaside life of Boso remains as it is, in a morning market.

The market's fish, and Katsuura tantanmen

Katsuura is a port that lands bonito, kinmedai and spiny lobster. At the market they grill the morning's fish over charcoal on the spot and hand it to you, or serve sangayaki — namero of minced local fish wrapped in shiso and grilled. A food stall facing the market serves a seafood bowl heaped with that morning's fish. And another signature is "Katsuura tantanmen" — a bowl of bright-red soup made with no sesame, only chili oil, onion and minced pork, said to have been born to warm the chilled bodies of fishermen and female divers. Begin with fish, warm up and finish with a hot tantanmen: that is a Katsuura morning.

How to walk this route

Start at Katsuura station. The market street is about ten minutes on foot, but the point is to arrive early. The market stands only in the morning, so move early. Nibble charcoal-grilled fish and sangayaki first, and have a seafood bowl at a market stall. Reset a salt-leaning palate with a market sweet like Hananakko. Then, to close — or as a "morning ramen" eaten from the start of the day — a bowl of Katsuura tantanmen. At Ezawa, its birthplace, or at Ishii in the market area, sip the bright-red soup and warm from the core. About two hours in all, a route you taste along with the clear morning air.

What to look for

The market's stars are, of course, fish. Charcoal-grilled fish from the morning catch, and sangayaki grilling local-fish namero, are plates only a Boso seaside makes. The seafood bowl changes with the day's catch — bonito, kinmedai, spiny lobster. Then Katsuura tantanmen: Ezawa is said to be its birthplace, and the form of no sesame, only chili oil and onion, spread from this shop. For the "morning ramen" eaten from early, try Ishii and others. Among sweets, the rape-blossom-paste bun "Hananakko" and freshly pounded mochi are just right to clear a salty palate.

Before you go

Katsuura Morning Market is closed on Wednesdays and over the New Year holiday. It is open only from around 6 a.m. to about 11 a.m., so for this town there is no option but to go in the morning. Staying the night before, or coming on an early train, is the realistic choice. The seaside morning can be quite cold by season, so bring an extra layer. The stalls take mostly cash only, so small change is reassuring. The tantanmen shops are open at lunch too, but the popular ones queue, so allow time.