×Shengjian (pan-fried pork buns)

Why you must eat itThe buns are packed edge to edge in a flat iron pan, lid on, half-fried and half-steamed. The base browns to gold while the top stays pale. When they come out, a cook spins the pan and scatters sesame and chopped scallion. The skin is on the thick side and chewy; bite in and hot broth seeps from the pork filling. The shop sits in the basement of SML Center, a turn from the Dapuqiao fare gates, with a near-constant midday line. Order two or four, with a small bowl of beef or vermicelli soup the way locals do. They are hot, so nick the skin first and let the steam out before you sip.